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Lipstick effect

What is the lipstick effect? A look into consumerism

The internet has given the term different versions of explanations, but all generally tell a similar idea. The lipstick effect is a phenomenon, an economic indicator.

It shows a consumption pattern of when an economic recession occurs, consumers tend to purchase small indulgences such as lipsticks, instead of big expensive goods like fur coats, designer shoes, etc.

The concept was coined by Leonard A. Lauder in 2001. Mr. Lauder found that despite the general decline of consumer spending on goods in the market, sales of lipsticks in his company increased. The beauty industry made an exception in the time of economic recession in post-9/11 America.

Famous advertisement image via The Tallenge Store

Although Mr. Lauder’s theory was largely based on his observation of his own company’s beauty revenues, it was later broadly cited by researchers and scholars.

The lipstick effect is not a scientifically proven concept supported by experiments. But it surprisingly explains consumer patterns in some significant crisis periods in U.S. history. For instance, The Great Depression, WWII, and the Stock Market Crash in 2008.


Why is the lipstick effect not working in the current economy?

There are many reasons that have caused people’s decreased consumption of beauty products during the pandemic.

Lockdown, self-quarantine, and social distancing order reduce people’s passions for doing makeup. The closing of public space such as shopping centers, restaurants, movie theaters transform consumer experience from physical to digital and decrease real-life social interactions.

The new WFH (working from home) routine, additionally, allows people to live a more flexible and relaxing lifestyle.

A new mentality has developed: personal wellness and self-care (skincare) > impressing the world (makeup).

According to McKinsey & Company, consumers purchased more skincare products than cosmetics in the U.S market during the pandemic.

Another important factor that turns many beauty consumers away from lipstick is the usage of face coverings. Lipsticks simply don’t go with masks. One, nobody can see what the lips look like behind a mask. And then two, lipstick gets smeared easily by the fabric material of the mask.

“There’s nothing quite as transformative as a lip color when it comes to taking an outfit from drab to fab (deep burgundy for sexy vibes, glossy red for all-out glamour) but our lipsticks are going to have to take a back seat this summer, as proved by Laura Whitmore this weekend who took off her mask to reveal her red lipstick had migrated down her face. Not the look she was going for.”

Melanie Macleod, Get The Gloss.

The lipstick effect has endured, but so then why does it seem like it’s dying out?

Although the lipstick effect doesn’t work in the current crisis, it doesn’t mean everybody has stopped purchasing lipstick.

Many beauty lovers still consider lipstick a necessity in their everyday beauty routines. They wear lipstick at home and under their masks.

Most likely no one will see their vibrant lip colors most of the time, but they don’t really mind, because to them what is more important is the sentiment, power, and strength that they acquire through putting on lipstick. Lipstick is their way to cope with reality and reclaim normalcy.

Lipstick has always been a symbolic object and powerful statement throughout history. It is an agency that has a transformative power and gives people the confidence and freedom to reinvent their identities.

via GIPHY

Back in The Great Depression and WWII, lipstick was the visual representation of femininity, womanhood, and female sexuality, as well as a means that women adopted to fight against odds and hardships in life.

Lipstick might not be performing the desired outcomes in the era of face masks, but it stands for an attitude. It is a manifestation of hope and enjoyment of simple pleasures in life. People’s craziness for lipstick will be restored and lipstick sales will bounce back in the near future, have faith.


How do beauty brands advertise their lip products during a recession?

It is interesting to see that in the pandemic, not only are beauty consumers trying to find better ways to wear lipsticks under face masks, but also beauty brands are learning to customize consumers’ needs.

Many cosmetics companies have concentrated on developing and advertising smudge-proof lipsticks, lip stains, or temporary ‘lip tattoos’ that will stay in place under a mask.

The concern for lip care is another idea that beauty brands promote to potential consumers in their lipstick advertisements. Dr. Sam Bunting says on Get the gloss,

“Trapped heat, humidity from mouth breathing, and friction from the mask can irritate delicate lips. It’s also very difficult to reapply lip balm frequently under a mask and you may also be less inclined to keep up drinking fluids. This can add up to exceptionally dry, cracked lips. It’s vital to find a long-lasting lip product that stays put and performs barrier repair.”

Dr. Sam Bunting

The nail polish effect, our new economic indicator?

Lips are such important components of our overall appearances. They reveal our emotions, moods, and thoughts through our communications with one another.

The face mask has nonetheless kept us from seeing the lips movements and deciphering messages they express.

While the influence of the lipstick effect is weakening, a new economic indicator – the nail polish effect – arises. Since the fingers are not necessarily the covered part, people thus have more freedom to play around and be creative with their nails.

Deforestation uncovered: Who are the photographers in the Amazon?

Amazon deforestation is wrecking havoc on the region. And largely only due to dedicated and courageous photographers, do we know the specifics of what is occurring.

In the late 20th century, movies with an exotic Amazon rainforest adventure theme were massively manufactured in the entertainment industry.

Characters such as obsessive research scientists, barbaric indigenous people, insanely gigantic mutant animals, and primitive jungle life were the classic components that made those stories so exciting yet banal at the same time.

amazon deforestation
Treehugger: an indigenous Paiter Surui boy, Brazil. (Photo via Rainforest Rescue).

Amazon on film vs. Amazon deforestation in real life

The Amazon was the utopia. To both producers and viewers, the Amazon rainforest was a beautiful and primitive destination. They could temporarily escape from their fast-paced urban life and stressful reality.

It was this mentality of escapism and adventurism that helped generate people’s fantasy of the unknown in the Amazon rainforest.

What does the Amazon rainforest really look like in real life, though? What is happening in the Amazon rainforest in the present day? We still imagine it as a place blessed with flourishing plants and fresh air separate from modern industrial interruptions.

Such impression, however, is largely based on the fantasies created by producers on the silver screen.

As a matter of fact, starting in the late 20th century, the Amazon ecosystem has been steadily down to the road of destruction. Deforestation is still the main reason for the consistent loss of life in the Amazon.

In recent years, as the situation in the Amazon has become more and more severe, photographers from diverse backgrounds have worked to document the heartbreaking deforestation. Contemporary photographers may have some say about the truth.


Richard Mosse

Richard Mosse is an Irish conceptual documentary photographer. He uses color infrared film to create a new perspective on topics such as conflict, crisis, and war.

Inspired by the reports in the media about the expansive burning of the Amazon rainforest in summer 2019, Mosse felt the urge to embark on a journey of documenting sites of environmental crimes and destruction.

With his custom-built multispectral camera, he set off to the Amazon and Pantanal to capture moments of the ecological disaster with unique technology and tell the devastating story of this tragedy through visual representation.

amazon deforestation
Multispectral Map Indicating the Range Of Recent Burning To Foliage and Wetlands along Rio São Lourenço, In Pantanal.
(Photo credit to Richard Mosse. Caption via Vice).
amazon deforestation
Silver Gelatin Photograph from Heat Degraded Infrared Film Showing The Aftermath of Slash-And-Burn Agricultural Encroachment Into Primary Rainforest, Southern Amazonas.
(Photo credit to Richard Mosse. Caption via Vice).

“It’s part of my attempt to show the viewer the difficulties, on the one hand, of photographing the vast and abstract narrative of ecocide, while on the other hand showing photography’s power to reveal and understand the scale of Man’s exploitation of the environment.”

Richard Mosse, interview with Vice.

Victor Moriyama

Victor Moriyama is a Brazilian photojournalist based in São Paulo. He documents social issues, humanitarian conflicts and environmental problems.

He is the founder of the Historians Amazonicas Project, a collective platform that gathers works of various photographers who are committed to the conservation of the Amazon rainforest.

As a witness to the tragedy that is happening in his country, he documents moments of the fires burning in the Amazon and the aftermath images through his camera.

soybean farmers
Soybean farmers have burned forestland to expand their acreage. Near Porto Velho, state Rondônia. (Photo Credit to Victor Moriyama for The New York Times. Caption via Visa Pour I’Image).

The Amazon rainforest expands into nine different countries – Brazil, Peru, Columbia, Bolivia, Ecuador, French Guiana, Guyana, Suriname, and Venezuela.

As most parts of the forest are located within the Brazilian territory, the nation holds primary responsibility in the protection of the rainforest. Brazil, however, does not perform a good job as it is expected.

“Amazon deforestation peaked in late 1990s and early 2000s. In the worst phases of those peak deforestation periods, over 10,000 square miles of forest could be cut down in a year, much of that cleared area converted directly to cropland for soy or grazing for cattle.”

National Geographic

Fires may lead to the deforestation of the Amazon rainforest, but human activity is the main cause of the fires.


What is the reason for this deforestation in the Amazon?

Many fires caused by humans are set up to quickly remove vegetation and clear lands for agricultural activity.

The process goes: farmers and ranchers would leave the felled trees from the early time of the year desiccated. And when those trees are completely dried out, people set them on fire to develop open land.

This doing, however, contributes rather devastating consequences to the balance of the ecosystem in the Amazon.

Unlike many species of trees that have evolved to endure fires throughout time in the western U.S or Mediterranean climates, the humid and moist Amazon rainforest is not adapted to deal with burning.

Intentional burning of the rainforest due to human activity creates a nasty cycle in the rainforest environment. Deforestation renders the rainforest vulnerable to its ability to heal and regenerate through plants breaking down.

In the meantime, the loss of ecology of the Amazon landscape puts the rainforest in an extremely passive situation. Random fires just spread on their own because of deforestation.

The Brazilian government, in fact, plays a big part in encouraging the process of deforestation of the rainforest in the nation.

The government had been putting in efforts in publishing laws and policies that were aimed to reduce the amounts of deforestation. And thanks to the coordinated international pressures, changes were made in managing balance between the forest and agricultural land.

However, the improvement processes have unfortunately set back when Brazil elected a new president, Jair Bolsonaro, in 2018.

Bolsonaro is an advocate of environmental development and has taken advantage of the natural resources in the Amazon during his reign. Under Bolsonaro, agricultural and illegal logging activities in the Amazon burgeon.


Is there any hope for the Amazon?

Fear has developed among the public that fires caused by deforestation will continue to spread. And that they will affect parts of the forest that are still healthy and intact.

If the fires cannot be controlled or slowed down, they will end up doing serious damage to the overall landscape. And still also endangering many species and ethnic groups that coexist with the ecosystem.

With The New York Times last year, Moriyama followed up with the Uru Eu Wau Wau peoples’ struggle against illegal invasions of their lands in the Amazon. People were celebrating the “Indigenous day,” but there was nothing to be celebrated.

In recent decades, indigenous people’s lives have been constantly threatened by “the illegal exploitation of their lands for the extraction of ores, removal of wood, gold mining and livestock expansion.”

Deforestation not only damages the ecosystem, but also almost ‘wipes out’ the ethnic groups that reside in the forest. Changes desperately need to be made.